Construction manual


First create the parts from the “casing” directory. For this a LaserCutter was used for the first prototypes and used as a basis for the HDF boards with a thickness of 3mm. In principle, however, there is also a other material is conceivable. The maximum dimensioning of the used LaserCutter is about 50cmx30cm, therefore the side panels were divided into 3 and 3a.
After cutting out the parts and removing the residues (if any) the edges have been removed, the housing can be glued with hot glue. Part number 4 and part number 7 should not be assembled permantely, as this is necessary for the assembly of the is done. Likewise, the cover plate can be fixed connected with the plug connection.
Since the case is quite high, it is recommended that you additionally a holder for the Raspberry Pi with a 3D-printer for the and to fix it relatively high up in the interior. A corresponding template can also be found in the directory.
On the back wall there should also be a manual opening on the underside for the cabling (this will be added later in the vector graphics).
The recess for the camera is slightly larger than it would be necessary, so that also other camera models could be used. The file Camera.svg contains an adapter for the camera board we use.
If the Audio-Shield or small speakers should be connected directly to the Raspberry Pi it is also advisable to connect the corresponding drill holes in the front of the housing, thisfor the housing can serve as a resonance chamber.


For the illumination of the template, an LED strip with a high lumen number, since this ensures a reasonably uniform illumination guaranteed. The list of required parts includes such a strip which can be connected to a 12 Volt power supply unit and can easily be shortened to the required length. It is advisable to place the LED strip on the underside of the cover plate next to the camera. Please note that a separate power supply (also available in the parts list) is required. Since this is connected to regular 220V power the use of shrinking tube is recommended.
Insulation and special care during the soldering of the respective power connections is required. If you are unsure, you should seek external support.

Raspberry Pi

For the Raspberry Pi it is recommended to use a power supply unit which is
is designed for the Pi. Failure to do so may result in undervoltage,
which can lead to problems during operation, especially when a passive
speakers and/or an audio shield.
The software is based on a Raspbian with Python3. We will try to provide a finished image in the Github, so no manual installation of packages is required. If the operating system has been installed on the microSD card, the Raspberry Pi will be put into operation. For people who do not like
on the command line, it is recommended for the further installation of a monitor, a keyboard and a mouse.
It is also necessary to ensure that the support of the camera has been activated. If an audio shield is to be used, the following must be done
this must also be installed.
If the software has been installed and you have made sure that the
Start the Raspberry Pi automatically the control process is started, can recommend installation in the housing. For this it is recommended to use a
The holder can be fixed inside the device, e.g. with hot glue.
This will prevent the Pi from hanging freely in the housing, as most of the
camera cables are not long enough to connect the Pi in the lower part of the camera to place the housing.
In addition to the camera, the control panel must also be connected to the appropriate GPIO pins of the Pi (control pins, as well as plus, minus and grounding). A simple variant is to connect the knobs together with the
cabling with a breadboard (test board) to the and to directly realize this in the front area under part 4 and obstruct it. A more beautiful solution is of course to use the buttons and the directly on a hole grid board.
This requires some experience with soldering irons and tin. The choice of buttons is relatively flexible, but buttons are recommended with tactile feedback. For better differentiation leave small vector graphics with symbols in the folder “Casing” for control, which can also be created with a LaserCutter can be cut out in order to then place them on the top of the
to stick buttons. When selecting the buttons, make sure that these are either screwed into part 4 or can be removed by means of the Breadboards are permanently installed. The size of the perforation can be changed and will depend on the buttons used. In addition to this, some knobs are installed relatively low, in the front part of the case which has only limited space in height.